Susan Granger’s review of “Deli Man” (Cohen Media Group)
“There are two types of people in this world,” wrote Damon Runyon, “those who love delis and those you shouldn’t associate with.”
That quote begins Erik Greenberg Anjou’s informative documentary, exploring the mouth-watering traditions and temptations of America’s Jewish delicatessens, accompanied by klezmer music.
Nostalgia reigns with David “Ziggy” Guber, a third-generation deli owner. He began working at his grandfather’s deli, the Rialto, the first deli on Broadway, when he was a kid. Ziggy attended the prestigious Le Cordon Bleu culinary school and trained at a three-star Michelin restaurant in London before deciding to return to his roots. Now he runs Kenny and Ziggy’s in Houston, Texas.
According to writer/food historian Jane Ziegelman, delis first became popular, low-cost eateries for German Jewish immigrants from the diaspora in Eastern Europe. Mounds of pastrami, corned beef and chopped chicken livers had their own seductive appeal, along with knishes and kugel.
In 1931, there were 1,550 kosher delis – and as many or more non-kosher competitors – in the five boroughs of New York. Now there are, perhaps, 150 in all of North America.
Pastrami was an invention of the Romanians and “schmaltz” (poultry fat) is an absolute kitchen essential – whether it be Katz’s on Manhattans Lower East Side, Artie’s on the Upper West Side, Manny’s in Chicago, Caplansky’s in Toronto, Canter’s in Los Angeles and Nate ‘n Al’s in Beverly Hills.
Woody Allen set the opening scene of “Broadway Danny Rose” at the Carnegie Deli in midtown Manhattan. And the debate still rages between half-sour or full-sour pickles.
Abe Lebewohl, who owned New York’s Second Avenue Deli, claimed he was “saving the world, one sandwich at a time.” FYI: that deli has now moved to 33rd Street between Lexington and Third.
Yiddish was often spoken, as surly waitresses once served as surrogate mothers, counseling those who were far from home. Just listen to the testimonials by deli devotees like Jerry Stiller, Fyvush Finkel, Larry King and attorney Alan Dershowtiz.
Years ago, deli staples were tasty dishes like goulash, chicken fricassee, potted meatballs and gribenes (fried schmaltz). Now, what people want are matzo-ball soup and pastrami-on-rye.
On the Granger Movie Gauge of 1 to 10, “Deli Man” is a delectable 6, an artery-clogging delight.
